You can use something like WinISD to figure things out. That allows you to use a 1" high-frequency unit and should improve the low-frequency extension a bit by giving the single 15" lots of breathing room. You'll get a few more dB of output, at the expense of LF headroom.Ī cheaper way to get good sound would be to use 1x 15" per side, and add a closed-back 8-10" midrange unit, and then do a 3-way crossover. If you're going to add subs, use high-efficiency midbass units instead of subwoofer drivers. Using a good compression driver allows a low crossover point, and then you can optimise the 15"s for proper bass duties, rather than sacrificing bass capability to try and get a big cone to meet a small compression driver.ĭoing all that is expensive, but would result in something that'll do full power from 40Hz upwards, with plenty of grunt for smaller events. 2x 15" subwoofer drivers, still running with one rolled off above a couple of hundred Hz. 1.4" BMS coaxial compression driver on a big horn running as low as possible. My no-holds-barred approach to this would be as follows: Even going 2.5-way like EV has with the original, you've still got a 15" cone trying to go up past 2kHz, and a 1" driver struggling to keep up with a pair of 15"s. For what it's worth, 2x15" + 1" HF isn't a great design.
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